The textile industry generates over 92 million tons of waste yearly due to the mass production of clothing and the disposable nature of many fashion items. Efforts to reduce pollution from the fashion industry face challenges in differentiating between discarded garments and valuable commodities.

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The vast scale of discarded used T-shirts, jeans, and dresses globally has become an alarming phenomenon, witnessing millions of tonnes being cast aside each year, and the trend is causing growing apprehension. The US disposes of an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste annually, while Canadians discard nearly 500 million kilograms of fabric items.

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The challenge lies in designing regulations for a collection, sorting, and recycling system currently not in place at the necessary scale. Determining when clothing should be deemed trash and when it retains value for reuse and resale adds another layer of complexity.

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Several countries have recently introduced extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles, with anticipated broader regulation on the way. Countries like France, for example, collected more than 260,000 tonnes of old clothes, paying out $23.7 million to sorting centers. These centers distinguish items suitable for resale from those destined for mechanical recycling or shredding.

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Most resalable products are shipped abroad, contributing to a controversial trade in secondhand clothes. Approximately one-third of textiles collected through the French EPR scheme end up in Africa. Concerns have been raised about the lack of control over quality and the destination of these garments, prompting calls for legislative adjustments at the European level.

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The Devil is in the Details

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Tackling textile waste is a big focus for policymakers in the EU especially as they lead the way in this space. Already agreed rules mean member countries must have systems to collect textile waste by 2025. Recently, the European Commission proposed an EPR scheme, including rules to manage textile waste to prioritize reusing and recycling more textiles. Last month, the European Parliament put forward a first draft of amendments, the next step in moving the proposal toward a final agreement.

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A technical but important detail is when and how discarded textiles are considered waste. Products destined for reuse or resale are subject to less stringent oversight and have clearer value, particularly in the absence of mature recycling infrastructure. Policymakers need to thread a needle between ensuring that products suitable for re-use reach the appropriate markets while controlling the flow of waste in a way that enables the development of recycling infrastructure and closes existing loopholes.

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The Loopholes and Shortcomings

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Nearly all sorted products deemed appropriate for resale were shipped abroad, becoming part of an opaque trade in secondhand clothes that advocacy groups say have turned receiving countries into dumping grounds for fast fashion. Roughly a third of the textiles collected through the French EPR scheme end up in Africa.

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The heavy reliance on the mass export of textiles with little control over the quality or the ultimate fate of the garments is a shortcoming of the system that should be addressed in legislation being discussed at a European level, according to a position paper published last month by Paris Good Fashion. The French association of more than 100 industry actors includes major fashion companies like Chanel, Kering and LVMH, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode trade group and nonprofits like the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

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The challenge is that the infrastructure to recycle textiles globally is limited, while the volume of waste is growing, and its quality is deteriorating. EU efforts to manage textile waste should include strict and consistent rules to ensure any clothes deemed fit for export meet quality standards, require greater transparency and controls to prevent waste from simply being sent abroad and ensure exports only go to countries that consent to receive them with demonstrated capacity to market or process used garments.

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Overproduction

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A single piece of legislation will never be a silver bullet for fashion’s waste problem.

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EPR schemes are intended to create mechanisms to finance textiles' collection, sorting, and recycling. Still, advocacy groups say additional steps must accompany them to ensure products reaching the market are long-lived enough to be suitable for reuse and are designed to be recycled — both topics on Europe’s roadmap for regulating the textile industry.

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The fees associated with EPR schemes could also incentivize companies to change the way they produce. In its draft proposal, the European Commission estimated that the average cost to collect and manage clothing waste in the bloc would be 12 cents per item. Still, the cost is expected to vary depending on the material and composition of specific items. So, products that are more difficult to recycle (for instance, those made of blended fibres or with lots of buttons or zips) are expected to command a higher fee.

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Still, ensuring textiles are collected, sorted, and responsibly disposed of is just one piece of a broader challenge for the industry. 

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The Road Ahead

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The fashion industry is at a critical juncture, grappling with the web of challenges surrounding textile waste. The staggering scale of global clothing disposal, with millions of tonnes discarded annually, has ignited concerns about environmental sustainability and the future of fashion. Efforts to curb this waste face significant hurdles, particularly in distinguishing between discarded garments and valuable commodities.

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The issue extends beyond legislation, as overproduction remains a core challenge. While EPR schemes aim to finance collection and recycling, additional steps are essential to ensure products entering the market are designed for longevity and recyclability. The associated fees could reshape industry practices, encouraging companies to adopt more sustainable production methods.

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In essence, addressing textile waste requires a multifaceted approach beyond regulations and embracing sustainable practices throughout the fashion industry. As stakeholders navigate this complex landscape, the goal remains clear: finding a balance between consumer demand, industry practices, and environmental responsibility to create a more sustainable future for fashion.

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